The Incredible Alhambra of Granada

Of all the structures in Islamic Spain, none had a story as iconic as that of the Alhambra of Granada. It is a tale told within the context of the almost 800 year long struggle (known as the Reconquista) by the various Christian kingdoms of the Iberian peninsula (now Spain and Portugal) to reconquer territory from the Muslims.

The Alhambra was the last great Muslim stronghold in Spain, standing until 1492, when the Catholic Monarchs (Queen Isabella I of Castile and King Ferdinand II of Aragon) took Granada in the final act of the Reconquista.

To visit the UNESCO World Heritage site is to visit two sections forming the single monumental complex: the Generalife and beside it, the Alhambra.

A note from the writer: this is a pre-pandemic tale.

The Generalife (from the Arabic Jannat al-‘Arīf, meaning "Garden of the Architect") was built in the 13th century as a summer retreat for the Nasrid rulers of the Alhambra. The Nasrid Dynasty was the last Arab and Muslim ruling dynasty in the Iberian Peninsula, governing the Emirate of Granada from 1230 to 1492.

It’s located on Cerro del Sol, or “Hill of the Sun,” providing stunning views over the Alhambra and the city of Granada.

Unlike the Alhambra’s political and residential purpose, the Generalife was a place of rest, poetry, and reflection; think luxury weekend escape medieval-style.

While some modern landscaping has modified the original layout, efforts have been made to restore and maintain authentic Moorish aesthetics.

The gardens are a brilliant example of Islamic garden design, following the concept of paradise on Earth: water, symmetry, shade, and scent.

Its narrow canals, fountains, and pools were fed by an aqueduct system that channeled water from the Darro River and snowmelt from the Sierra Nevada.

Originally planted with fruit trees, aromatic herbs, roses, and jasmine, the gardens were designed to be experienced with all five senses.

The central Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel) is the most famous area with its long reflective pool and arched walkways; it is the literal and spiritual heart of the palace.

The whitewashed buildings are much simpler than the Alhambra, emphasizing harmony with nature over grandeur.

The gardens are also home to century-old cypress trees, seasonal blooms, and birdsong that once inspired poets, mystics, and musicians alike.

It’s often referenced in Andalusian literature as a place of nostalgia and lost paradise, especially after the fall of Granada in 1492.

You will need a separate timed entry for the Generalife when visiting the Alhambra complex; and it’s well worth it! The best time to visit is early morning or at golden hour, when the gardens are less crowded and the lighting becomes magical.

Though at any time in the day, the view of the Alhambra from here is spectacular!

The Alhambra (from al-Ḥamrāʼ, Arabic for "The Red One") gets its name from the reddish hue of its walls, especially dramatic at sunset.

It was originally built as a small fortress in 889 CE on Roman ruins, then largely ignored for centuries. The structure was then rebuilt and expanded in the mid-13th century by the Nasrid emir Mohammed I of Granada, transforming it into a royal palace complex.

Despite the Muslim roots, Christian elements were added after the Reconquista, including Renaissance touches from Emperor Charles V.

The Alhambra is not just one building, but a city within a city, complete with palaces, gardens, baths, towers, and military barracks.

And of course, the palace is home to several legends:

One legend says Boabdil, the last Nasrid ruler, wept as he left the Alhambra, and his mother allegedly scolded him with: "Weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man." Sheesh talk about tough love!

Another legend states that hidden treasure or ancient secrets lie beneath the palace, feeding countless myths of lost Nasrid gold!

Nevertheless, the Alhambra is a masterpiece of Islamic art and Moorish architecture, with intricate muqarnas, calligraphy, geometric tilework, and flowing water features.

Such craftsmanship! One can't help but stare at the fine details.

The palace interiors are modest in scale but immensely detailed, designed to humble visitors by immersing them in divine beauty.

In 2022, researchers found Arabic inscriptions hidden in decorative plaster, revealing religious poetry and phrases like "There is no victor but God."

The famous Alhambra tiles contain mathematical patterns that pre-date formal crystallography, showing early understandings of symmetry and geometry.

Repeating geometric patterns symbolize the infinite, transcendent, and unchanging nature of God, reflecting religious values of order and universality.

This is also in line with the Islamic belief of using geometric patterns to adorn their mosques, unlike Christians who love creating art featuring Jesus and the Saints.