Madrid, the Spanish Royal Family, and the Legacy of Francisco Franco and the Spanish Civil War

One cannot explore Madrid without examining its most famous residents, the Royal Family. One of Europe's remaining monarchies, Spain has had a monarch for over 500 years, dating back to the unification of Castile and Aragon in the 15th century.

The Spanish Royal Family belongs to the House of Bourbon, a dynasty originally from France. Spain’s monarchy was actually abolished twice before eventually being restored in 1975 after the death of dictator Francisco Franco. King Juan Carlos I then played a major role in Spain’s transition from dictatorship to democracy. His son and current monarch, Felipe VI, became king in 2014 after he abdicated.

The Royal Palace of Madrid is the largest functioning royal palace in Europe by floor area, with over 3,400 rooms. King Philip V ordered the palace built to rival the grandeur of Versailles in France.

A note from the writer: this is a pre-pandemic tale.

The palace’s grand staircase was designed by famous Italian architect Francesco Sabatini.

Despite being the official royal residence, the Spanish royal family does not actually live there; they reside at the more modest Zarzuela Palace.

Unfortunately, the grand staircase is the only part of the Palace where photographs are allowed. 

Other parts of the Palace accessible to the tour include: the throne room, the royal armory containing one of the world's finest collections of medieval weapons and armor, and the porcelain room where walls are covered entirely in porcelain.

Unlike Britain’s royals, Spain’s monarchy is generally considered more politically restrained and constitutional.

In fact, Queen Letizia  was once Letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, a television journalist, before marrying into royalty!

Spain’s royals often participate in cultural and sporting events, especially supporting Spanish athletes internationally.

Standing directly across the Royal Palace is the Catedral de Santa María la Real de la Almudena, Madrid's main cathedral.

“Almudena” comes from the Arabic word al-mudayna, meaning “citadel” or “fortress.”

The cathedral combines multiple architectural styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Romanesque, and Neo-Classical.

Construction began in 1883 but the cathedral was not fully completed until 1993. 

It was consecrated by Pope John Paul II, making it the only Spanish cathedral consecrated by a Pope in modern times.

Unlike many ancient cathedrals in Spain, Almudena is relatively “young,” giving it a distinct blend of old and modern aesthetics.

According to legend, a statue of the Virgin Mary was hidden in the city walls during Muslim rule and rediscovered centuries later.

The crypt beneath the cathedral is enormous and contains more than 400 columns.

Probably the very first statue of God the Father I have ever seen!

Typical of European Cathedrals, the Almudena also contains relics of Saints; such as this relic of St. Pedro Poveda enshrined in a dedicated chapel.

The Cathedral also serves as a site for important religious events such as weddings. Then Prince Felipe VI and Letizia Ortiz Rocasolano were married here in 2004.

Around 40 minutes from Madrid's city center stands the massive complex of San Lorenzo de El Escorial. Built by Philip II of Spain in the 16th century, El Escorial functions as a monastery, royal palace, basilica, library, school, and royal mausoleum all-in-one!

And while the Royal Palace assumes the role as official residence of the Spanish Crown, El Escorial has the distinct honor of being the symbol of Spain's power during its golden age.

And much like the Royal Palace, photography is strictly prohibited inside. Any photos not personally taken by the writer, will include credits.

A must-see attraction is the monastery's awe-inspiring and jaw-dropping library.

Containing thousands of rare manuscripts in Latin, Arabic, Greek, and Hebrew; and one hell of a view.

Spanish Kings and Queens are also buried in the Pantheon of the Kings beneath the basilica; laid out in such a way that should the dead rise again during the second coming of Christ, each couple would resurrect facing the other in joyful reunion.

The King who built El Escorial, Philip II, was the most powerful man in the world during the late 16th century. As a member of the Habsburg dynasty, he ruled over a vast empire which included the entire Iberian peninsula, the Netherlands, huge sections of Italy (Milan, Naples, and Sicily), the Americas, the Philippines in Asia, and parts of Africa. 

And yet for all that wealth and majesty, Philip II was extremely hardworking, frugal, and religious. The building’s austere granite design reflected Philip II’s deeply religious personality and this relatively small work area reflected his hardwork and frugality. It's mind blowing to think that a King ruled such a vast an empire, including my mother country, from such a simple desk.

Finally, one cannot speak about rulers of Spain without mentioning the Valley of the Fallen, the Spanish Civil War and the late dictator, General Francisco Franco.

The Valley of the Fallen was a monument commissioned by Francisco Franco, to commemorate the horrors of the Spanish Civil War. Officially, the monument was intended as a place of historical remembrance and reconciliation for both sides of the conflict, with over 33,000 dead buried there.

Along with featuring one of the world’s tallest crosses, standing around 150 meters (492 feet) high, it has an enormous basilica carved directly into a mountain.

The Spanish Civil War began in July 1936 after a military uprising against Spain's democratically elected Republican government, and was fought mainly between Republicans (leftists, socialists, anarchists, and democrats) and Nationalists led by Francisco Franco.

It became a global ideological battleground often described as a “dress rehearsal” for World War II with Adolf Hitler and Benito Mussolini supporting Franco with aircraft, troops, and weapons and the Soviet Union backing the Republicans.

The war saw some of the earliest large-scale bombings of civilians in modern history. Spain became deeply divided not just politically, but also religiously, regionally, and socially. Hundreds of thousands died from combat, executions, bombings, starvation, and political repression.

Franco’s victory in 1939 led to a dictatorship that lasted until his death in 1975. He established an authoritarian regime marked by censorship, political repression, and suppression of regional identities like Catalan and Basque cultures. During his rule, thousands of political opponents were imprisoned, executed, or forced into exile.

However, Franco developed a personality cult, often being called “El Caudillo” (“The Leader”), as Spain experienced a rapid economic growth known as the “Spanish Miracle” during later decades of his rule, transforming it into a modern industrial economy.

Before his death, Franco arranged for the monarchy to be restored under Juan Carlos I. 

Today, Franco remains one of the most controversial figures in Spanish history; viewed by some as a stabilizer and by others as a brutal dictator responsible for decades of repression.

Since the monument is so directly tied to Franco, the site remains one of Spain’s most politically sensitive and divisive landmarks. The legacy of the Civil War still shapes Spanish politics, historical debates, and national identity across the regions today.